EatDrinkShopCook: At The Lime, 'love' is the recipe for restaurant longevity

Most restaurant owners will agree that 2011 was a tough year. Some restaurants, both old and new -- like the veteran Bogey's in Westport and the newly arrived MacKenzie's in Fairfield -- shut their doors. Others have soldiered on, hoping that 2012 will boost their fortunes.

Yet there are a select few that are going strong, just as they have been for many years. These oldies-but-goodies prove that, in even a tough economy, people are willing to splurge for good food.

"We've been open for 28 years," said Amedeo Feola, the owner of Mamma Mina in Fairfield. The restaurant, tucked into a shopping center beside the Bob's Store on the Post Road, is a classic Italian pizza-and-pasta joint.

On any given night, you'll find families and couples, young and old sitting in the booths or at one of the big tables. Entrees range from pasta dishes like ravioli and baked ziti ($9.50) to chicken parmigiana ($16.25) and veal marsala ($17.75). The front counter is always busy with people picking up their orders to-go. There's no gimmick here. No flashy bar with fancy cocktails, no trendy ingredients. Just good, old-fashioned American-Italian comfort food. So what's the secret to Mamma Mina's success?

"Our love for the people," Feola answers immediately. "We bring a good product and a friendly atmosphere ... You have to like people and have consistency with service and food."

It's a similar story at The Lime on Main Avenue in Norwalk, which has been open since 1979. The tiny restaurant, which seats about 40 people, has claimed a reputation as one of the area's best vegetarian eateries, although it does serve some beef, chicken and fish entrees.

"In 1979, everybody thought health food was a fad," said owner Vincent Labozzetta. "They said we'd never make it," he said. "But we've gotten stronger and stronger." At first, the menu was completely vegetarian, but it was soon modified to include fresh fish, which is delivered every day. Entrees, such as zucchini loaf ($16.95) and Cajun swordfish ($21.95), are served with homemade bread, salad, steamed vegetables and brown rice.

Lisa Petersen has been a waitress at The Lime for 23 years. "I've seen kids sitting here in high chairs and watched them grow up and go to college and get married," she said. "We have great customers because our food is so healthy. They're educated and well-traveled. It's a great environment," she said.

While the menu has always focused on healthy recipes, there have been a few changes over the years. "We used to do a lot of pitas on the lunch menu," said Petersen. "Now we do more roll-ups." In addition, the beverage menu has evolved to include an array of organic beers. "We'll go as organic as we can," said Labozzetta.

While business has generally been good, 2011 was the hardest year yet, Labozzetta said. He offered advice to newcomers to the restaurant field. "You'd better love what you're doing and expect to make lots of sacrifices," he said. "There's a lot of great talent out there, but you also have to have skill and a great business sense."

Contact Patti Woods at eatdrinkshopcook@gmail.com.

THE SCOOP

Mamma Mina's: 881 Post Road, Fairfield; 203-255-4190

Open Tuesday to Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; on Sunday 4-10 p.m. Closed Mondays.

Try the manicotti, chicken piccata or calzones.

The Lime: 168 Main Ave., Norwalk; 203-846-9240

Open Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Sunday, 4:30-9:30 p.m.

Try the black bean chili, soy carrot loaf or mixed grill sweetfire.